the u.k. unload

right, so it's almost two in the morning and i've got to take advantage of my last bit of free internet access of the trip. this means i'll actually spell check and edit as i type. i refuse to capitalize my words because i'm using a funky keyboard and keep hitting the \ button each time i reach for 'shift.' silly brits.

here's a picture of emily, ben, and me in london.

on with the show: my first full day in london was spent as it was meant to be...as a tourist! this means a lot of walking, map-reading, and photographs. emily and i hopped on the tube (subway) and headed to waterloo station (a big rail station) just after the early morning peak hour. exiting the station we strolled along the thames river (london's stinky ol' river) and popped up on the street staring at big ben and the house of parliment. big ben isn't as big as i expect but he's still quite good looking for his age. oh, and the hourly bonging is delightful.

then we took the walk recommended by rick steves. side note: seriously, this guy is my best friend on this trip. i've taken to saying things like, 'emily, i don't know where we should go now that we're in leicster square...rick, what do you think?' as i reach into my rucksack for the guidebook of all guidebooks. anyway, rick had us walking up past a bunch of official building with guards and little black fences around manicured green lawns. walking past tony blair's place on 10 downey street we ended up in trafalgar square, formerly known as pigeon center of the world. i was a bit let down when i only saw maybe 75 of the winged rats fluttering about. crossing the pigeonless square we entered--and spent the next two hours in--the national gallery. housing famous painting from van gogh, monet, rembrandt, and botticelli, we were able soak up some classic culture and critique to our hearts' content. 'honestly, i know van gogh's famous and it looks splendid and all, but in the end, isn't it just a chair?'

after a leisurely picnic lunch in a park, we hit the british library where books are cool because they're older than jesus. well, then there are all the ones that are about god, greater meaning, religion and so forth. each book is literally a work of art with hand written pages and meticulously detailed art. then came gutenburg and *poof* went the art of book making while !Ka-BLAMO! went the availability of information. oh, and we saw handwritten music by beethoven, mozart, the beatles, and chopin. far more exciting than the average cultural dilettante might believe.

from there it was a double-decker bus ride and a crossing of the millenium bridge to the tate modern where monet mingled with pollack and one exhibit titled 'the wrong display' was simply a receiver and a sub-woofer on the floor in a small closet enclosed by a modern glass door in front and an old wooden one in back. modern art = wha-?! the night was topped off with the best chinese food in west putney hosted by emily's amazing sister, charlotte. oh, and at night we watched top gear (the absolute sweetest car show ever, maybe even sweetest show ever).

Today was another long, fun day of touristy stuff mixed with local spice. now that i'm about to leave, i've got a fairly strong grasp on the london underground system as well as the bus transport. emily and i started off the morning strong with an irresistable attraction. 'Bodies...The Exhibition' is set up at earl's court, not 15 minutes from where i'm staying. if you don't know, 'Bodies' is a controversial display of...well...human bodies. they've all been polymerized (i'm making up verbs to suit my needs) so they're essentially plastic replacements of intricate parts of the bodies. can't describe it. look it up and go see it if possible. somehow i still had an appetite after that which was promptly cured by two pasties (delicious little savory pasteries).

then we spent most of the day walking. through hyde park, past buckingham palace (i phoned ahead to liz and asked if she'd pop her head out the window for a photo, but she was busy), around westminster abbey (tried to get in the back door to avoid lines and high price by asking to pay respects to britain's unknown soldier and would have but for the ongoing service, according to the friendly guard).

all that walking worked up a monumental appetite which was cured by the markedly courtious staff at belgo central, the big belgian restaraunt near covant garden. amazing food and beer at about six quid a pop (~11 bucks a plate, really good here). following such a lovely dinner, we headed to the globe theatre for a rousing rendition of shakespeare's 'titus andronicus.' for five quid each we got standing tickets on the floor. this means that for less than ten bucks we got to stand right up front next the stage and interact with the players as they marched through and around the crowd. i actually boo'ed the bad guy, aaron, as they sent him to be punished for his horrendous acts of cruelty. the play was so bloody, gorey, and distrubing i can see why it was one of ol' bill's most popular acts back in the day. if i'd had a rotton cabbage i would have hucked it at the mean players, just to add a dash of authenticity.

bollocks! it's late. i'm headed to belgium first thing in the morning. in about 16 hours i expect to be eating the world's best mussles and drinking its best beer in brugge.

cheerio!